T+L’s Review of Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens

Why haven’t they filmed a season of The White Lotus here? I’m sitting at a table in the shade, a few steps from the sea, with a glass of chilled assyrtiko and a plate of marinated octopus close at hand. A few couples are perusing the lunch menu, and the superyachts are bobbing in the harbor. A server checks on a nearby table, chatting in Greek about what I can only presume are the details of the day’s catch.

By the time my lamb kebabs arrive, I realize that there’s one difference between this magical Four Seasons on the Athenian Riviera and the fictional resorts of the HBO show: everyone here is not only well dressed but also behaving themselves.

It makes sense: this stretch of beach clubs, quiet coves, luxury shops, and high-end hotels has been an escape for the jet set since the 1960s, when boldface names started vacationing in Vouliagmeni and the surrounding communities, turning the area into the Hamptons of Athens. At the heart of it all was the Arion, an iconic building that recalls other legendary resort hotels, like the Fontainebleau Miami Beach or San Juan’s Hilton Caribe. An additional tower, the Nafsika, and a series of bungalows helped round out the original Astir Palace, which sits on a private peninsula about 30 minutes by car from the center of Athens.

Today, these hotels have been unified as the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, a massive resort that spans 75 acres. It offers several beaches, numerous restaurants (including outposts of New York’s Beefbar and chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s eponymous Matsuhisa), and plenty of bars, as well as quiet corners with seaside lounge chairs, whether you’re after full sun or a shaded hideaway. Racquet courts, an archery range, a “wellness garden” with outdoor fitness classes and spa services, a “watersports center,” and even a helipad are among the many (many) amenities.

I’d arrived at the property after a week-long cruise through the Adriatic Sea, so I was already in a resort-y mindset, having spent seven days aboard Oceania Cruises’ 1,200-passenger Allura. Still, I was somewhat in awe of the scale of Astir Palace. It seemed to stretch to the horizon, with another lovely seaside restaurant or pool around every bend along the Saronic Gulf. Yet I also found moments of subdued privacy, in my sea-view bungalow, with its private plunge pool and what has to be one of the world’s most comfortable beds.

Walking the footpaths one morning, mesmerized by the electric blue of the sea, I’d catch the aromas of rosemary and lavender, as gentle waves crashed ashore and cicadas buzzed in the pine trees that perfumed the salty air. It would be a stretch to call this 303-room, nearly 70-year-old resort an under-the-radar secret. But I’m glad it hasn’t yet had a star turn on HBO. It’s too good to go bad.

Read on for my full review of the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, including information on the rooms and suites, the dining options, and the many amenities on the property, which is located south of Athens, skirting the Saronic Gulf.

The Rooms

The Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens has a total of 303 rooms, suites, and bungalows, which offer a good variety of options to meet different needs. The resort has three unofficial zones, from south to north, clustering around the Nafsika Building, the Arion Building, and the bungalows.

• Most of the family-oriented amenities such as the main pool, the kids’ club, athletic courts, and Mercato restaurant, which among other things hosts the buffet breakfast, can be found in the Nafsika building.
• The Arion has a more subdued vibe, with the resort’s Michelin-star restaurant, Pelagos; the spa; and an indoor pool.
• North of the Arion are what the hotel calls the bungalows, a series of attached suites built into a hillside, each with a private plunge pool and terrace. Several—but not all—are connecting to enable families or groups to share space while retaining some privacy.

My bungalow, 33, wasn’t overly large but felt supremely comfortable, particularly because of the indoor-outdoor flow between the bedroom and the shaded terrace, which had an outdoor shower, cafe table, and two chaise lounges, as well as a delightful plunge pool. The view of the sea, framed by what appeared to be an Aleppo pine tree, also didn’t hurt. I would’ve gladly stayed for a week.

Food and Drink

There’s no shortage of outstanding food here. At the top of the list is Pelagos, an enchanting fine-dining restaurant with a Michelin star that overlooks the sea. It has a wonderfully concise menu of inventive dishes from chef Luca Piscazzi, who developed many of the plates after extensive research on the islands of Greece—a tough job if ever there were one. The results include preparations such as the rabbit and lobster entrée inspired by Crete or the sole-and-Champagne course inspired by Sifnos. An Instagram-famous caviar pasta seemed to scream “stunt dining” to me—but was, thankfully, indulgently delicious. Beverage service, including a selection of martinis and lower ABV choices, was equally on point; the dreamy baba au rhum at the conclusion of my dinner was fantastic, even for somebody who typically declines sweets.

I was similarly impressed by Taverna 37, a waterfront venue that channels the feel of Greece’s casual restaurants while delivering elevated versions of classics such as saganaki, salt-roasted whole fish, and grilled lamb. A table in the shade, a bounty of Greek salad, some olives, and a chilled glass of assyrtiko: if there’s a better lunch out there, I’d love to have it.

Elsewhere at the Four Seasons, there are more options like Mercato (Italian), Helios (Latin American), Astron (coffee and elaborate pastries), Kyma (a beach bar with light bites), and, naturally, an in-room dining menu.

For cocktails, Avra is the resort’s go-to spot, striking the right balance between contemporary cocktail culture (think playful menus and plenty of collabs) and the sort of old-school elegance I still like in a hotel bar. (It helps that this one was designed by Martin Brudnizki, the go-to designer for those looking to make a statement.) The Four Seasons also offers cocktails and specialty spirits at its cigar lounge, Aristotle’s.

Experience and Activities

If you can dream it, they can do it, often at extra cost. Resort activities such as chilling by the pool, swimming in the sea, lounging on the beach, or jogging on the running path around the peninsula are a given. Four Seasons also has a long menu of a la carte choices, including spa treatments, fitness classes, tennis coaching, boating, kayaking, history tours, helicopter rides, and padel games. (A team of concierges look after guests and can help coordinate activities and transportation.) Worth a special mention is the Athens Spa, a well-appointed facility that nods to thalassotherapy with many of its treatments, which include scrubs, massages, and facials. As is the case at many resorts in Europe these days, the Four Seasons has a nice menu of family-friendly spa services.

Location

The Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens is located on a skinny peninsula south of the city center, in the town of Vouliagmeni, which is a destination in its own right. It’s certainly possible to have a complete vacation within the grounds of the hotel and to feel, at times, like you’re not really in Greece, but for the abundance of wonderful food and warm hospitality. That said, the resort is not so removed from the city that it’s difficult to coordinate a more holistic experience: a drive to the Parthenon, for example, can take around 45 minutes. The resort is also conveniently located for embarking or disembarking a cruise or ferry connection, with the port of Piraeus about 30 to 45 minutes away, depending on traffic.

Accessibility and Sustainability

The resort has several accessibility features for individuals with disabilities. “The property offers wheelchair-accessible rooms, bathrooms, and public spaces, as well as hearing and visually impaired features like visual alarms and notification devices,” a spokesperson tells T+L. “There are 10 rooms adapted for wheelchair users: five in the Nafsika building and five in the Arion building, which include features like electronic doors that open automatically, lowered toilets, and roll-in showers with rails. Both buildings, as well as all public areas, are also serviced by lifts.”

In terms of sustainability, the Athens property has implemented several practices that are part of the global Four Seasons for Good framework. Specifically, these include EV charging, vegetarian and vegan menus, solar water heating, greywater recycling, composting, and organized beach cleanups, among other initiatives.

Book Now

Four Seasons does not have a loyalty program, but Four Seasons Astir Palace is bookable on credit card platforms like American Express Fine Hotels and Resorts, which offer Platinum card holders complimentary daily breakfast and a $100 resort credit, among other perks. Nightly rates start at $944.

Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.